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  1. Another great one man. Been brushing up on your channel lately as I'm considering making the jump to Fuji now that the XH-1 is so much more affordable. I sometimes forget you're a big film shooter too. I love that you keep the videos mixed up between the Fuji stuff and the film stuff. It's cool to see that I've got a lot of common photo interests with ya, Andrew!

  2. I keep a sharpie in my bag and write a D on both sides of the film leader when I take it out of my camera. Saves me exposing it twice. I also write what iso it was shot at on the canister, whether it was box speed or I messed up.

  3. Andrew I got to say, I just love this analog comparison videos! Please keep them going! As always beautiful shots!

    Thank u!

  4. Andrew you've done an absolutely fantastic job helping people, but I'm going to stay pushing LR sliders for now, film is not for me. Looking forward to the next photo duel.

  5. Started recognizing places (SF) in random photos. I walk past that dead-end alley close to Dragon’s Gate almost every day.
    Great breakdown of b&w chemistry. Thanks for taking an unimaginable amount of time and patience to get through all of that.

  6. Very useful video I will certainly consider this before developing my B&W rolls, thanks.
    By the way, would you consider doing the same test but with colour and slide film ? I really like your videos and would really like to see you do it with these types of film.

  7. Great video. Love HC 110 (Ilford) and use it to develop 100 speed films like FP4, Acros, Delta as well as 400 speed films like HP5 (box speed or pushed). I find a lot more variation can be achieved with different amounts of agitation and/or scanning. EDIT: but you've given me something to think about in terms of Rodinal and DDX for high speeds…

  8. Yes! You've answered my question of why I was getting sprocket lines from df96 on many of my images. I could not find the answer anywhere and it was driving me nuts! Thank you!

  9. Hi Andrew,
    Awesome video as always. Keep the good work. BUT!!!
    We all want one thing…. PHOTO DUEL!!! 😁.
    I beg your pardon i am being rude here. But i guess almost all of your subscribers are waiting to see your next photo duel. Please release a photo duel video as soon as possible. Thank you Andrew. 👍

  10. Wait, no Caffenol? 🤪

    Seriously, this is a great video (I mean, a Spy vs. Spy statue?!?). I would be curious to see you geek out on coffee developers, too, though.

  11. Nice video. Yeah, Rodinal is great with 100 speed film/35mm. 400 speed film – tons of grain. I've found XTOL is a great general use developer for all speeds.

  12. Great film video bud. Im on the verge start up a jobo cpr2 and looking to chem to get, a great help, do more vid and stop bag your vid, format is great. at the moment I'm running hp5 in my nikon f4 and fp4 in my Ricoh xrs as well tri-x 400xt in nokia fg-20. Ive done a few roll of xp2super in my olypmus om1n, Ive done few rolls 100Tmax in Fuji half.

  13. Ok, so Rodinal is the only developer I have right now and I would like to shoot some film. Which film works best with Rodinal? I prefer low and packed grain to grain you can clearly see.

  14. Super! What would have been nice was add the dev. times for each role. Recently I've found HP5+ at 1600 dev HC110 ( my favoritr) mix at 1:63 (H) for 20 min. Perfect match a pain to agitate every min. for 20 min. but worth the results. Again love your program!

  15. Great work, Andrew. There were some lovely shots there.

    I'm not new to film but I still love HC-110. I don't shoot a huge amount of film so the long shelf life is ideal for me. I can push tri-x to 1600 without the grain becoming overpowering, I just hope the new formula has only changed the viscosity.
    Ultrafine Extreme still isn't available on this side of the pond which I just don't understand, someone needs to get on that.
    Keep shooting!

  16. Being new to developing film, I love these reviews. I just recently picked up some HC110, but I think I'm going to get some Rodinal for 100 speed film. I've been leaning towards tmax 400, but also use acros.

  17. I have an opened bottle of rodinal that i have used for 5-6 rolls, i read somwhere that the developer, once opend, last for about 6 monthsand then goes bad, is this true or can i keep using it? I develop at a slow pase because i shoot both color and bw (only develop bw at home).

  18. Hey great video! Thank you for sharing. I store my chemicals in "bag in a box" containers. I mix stock solutions, pour it into the bag, push the air out and attach the tap. After that air (i.e. oxygen) never gets in contact with the developer again. I've never had xtol or ID-11 go bad, even after more than one and a half years. After three years of shooting I finally found combos I like: one of my favorite is Delta400 pushed to 1600 in Xtol 1+1. For Tri-X or FP4 I stay with the usual D76 or ID-11.

  19. I have shot two bulk 100’ rolls of Ultrafine extreme 400 and developed all of them in Rodinal 1+50, simply because this seemed the most economical way to shoot film. Love the look and I like the grit it gets at 1600 and 3200. I recently bought a bottle of hc110 and the shorter times and punchiness are great. Thanks for doing this test

  20. I always love these videos. One to try especially if you have a broad range of contrasts on one roll would be Barry Thornton 2 bath developer. It’s SUPER easy to make, basically a d23 variant, and creates a very flexible negative to work with either in Post digitally or with VC paper in the darkroom.

  21. Always such a pleasure to view photos of your family. So much emotions it brings feelings of nostalgia in a way. I’ll be purchasing my first developer and Rodinal is the most affordable where I’m from. Glad it works well with fp4 because it is one of my favorite film stocks. Thanks for the video!

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