How to use a Nishika N8000 3D 35mm Film Camera

How to use a Nishika N8000 3D 35mm Film Camera


Not only am I going to show you how to use the Nashika N8000 3D 35mm film camera, but I’m also going to show you, in the second half of this video how to use a free piece of software called GIMP in order to make a basic animated GIF of your 3D photos. The batteries for the N8000 go in the bottom of the handle. Here you slide the door sideways and it pops out. It takes two AA batteries, which are very easy to insert. And then you just slide it back. It’s spring-loaded, It’ll pop in. The batteries can be tested to make sure they’re good by using the sliding switch on the top here. So you would slide it forward, and it lights up this red LED if the batteries are good. Just to give you an idea, this is what the resulting film will look like. You can see that it’s taken four photographs each from a different perspective of the four different lenses on the front of the camera. These four photos take up 2 regular 35mm frames. So instead of taking two regular photos, you’re taking 4 smaller photos. The N8000 takes regular 35mm film, and this is black-and-white, but for best results, you probably want to use color. The camera is specifically designed to use 100 ISO film. Which for those of you who don’t know, ISO refers to the light sensitivity of the film. The higher the number, the more sensitive it is to light and thus it doesn’t need as much light to come into the camera to make a correct exposure. However, if you use 400 ISO film, or 800 ISO film, it’s generally not a huge deal as photographic film is much more difficult to overexpose than a digital photo. To load the film, like most 35mm cameras, you take the rewind knob here and you pull it up, And the back will pop open. Here you can see a couple different stickers within the camera. The one over here is talking about the number of photos you’ll get for rolls of different size. The only film you can really buy these days are 36 exposure film. Which on this camera, since each exposure takes up 2 frames, which you can see across here, you’ll actually get 18 photos per roll. On this sticker here it’s talking about the take-up spool and how it’s slightly different from a regular take-up spool on a 35mm camera. But it’s really important that you load it correctly. So you want to take your roll of 35mm film and put it into the left side of the camera. And you can push down the rewind knob here to hold it in place. You then take the film tab and you pull it out, and like other 35mm cameras, you’re going to insert it into the slot here on the take-up spool. But there’s a couple things to keep in mind. The first is that at the bottom here, there’s this little nub, and that hooks on to one of these holes in the film. The reason why it’s there is because of what I’m about to show you. Because it takes 2 frames for each photo, it has to advance 2 frames every time you use this advance lever. So the way it pulls the film out, is you’ll move this lever, and you can see it moves the take-up spool. It also moves this little wheel here to help move the film along. The thing about this advance lever is, because it’s advancing by two 2 frames, it makes the take-up spool move very quickly. So if I go quickly on the advance lever, it’ll go quickly here. Whereas with a normal camera only advances by 1 frame, now this becomes an issue. Mainly because the camera is plastic and a little temperamental. So it’s pulling a lot of film all at once and if you don’t do it slowly then it can cause the film to slip and not advance as much as it should. And then you’ll start getting overlapping photos as you take them. So when you advance the film you want to make sure to do it slowly and carefully. So the camera will not allow you to advance the film again until you hit the shutter button here, and you can see that all four lenses open at once. So you can take your film tab here and put it into the slot of the take-up spool, and it’s important that you do your best to align one of the holes with the hook on the bottom of the take-up spool. Now as I said, this camera can be kind of temperamental, so the way this needs to work is, you can kind of make it taut like this. And then you need to close the back of the camera. If you try to advance it while the back still open, it’s not going to work very well, if at all. You need to have this pressure plate putting pressure on to the film and allowing it to come into contact with the advance wheel right here. So close the back of the camera, push down the rewind knob. Now the next thing you need to do is to make sure that your film is advancing correctly, is the rewind knob here. You want to turn it clockwise until you get some nice tension, on the film. So this way when you advance the film lever here, it’s going to turn this counterclockwise, because it’s pulling the film out of the canister. So you want to do that slowly and for every photo you take, you always want to move this advance lever slowly and carefully. Making sure that this is turning the way it’s supposed to and you’re not getting any slippage. If you do get some slippage, there’s not really a whole lot you can do about it. Just know that your next photo will probably overlap some with the previous photo. The camera also has a film reminder window which is where you can rip off a small part of the film box that it comes in, and just slide it in this little slot right here, so that you have a reminder, if you put the camera down for a while, of exactly what film is in there. On the top of the camera, you will also find your frame counter. Which keep in mind, with a 36 count roll it will do 18 photos, and because this advance lever can pull pretty hard on the film, you want to keep a careful eye on this. So that when you reach the end of the roll, you’re not ripping it out of the cartridge. The Nishika N9000 uses 4(four) 30mm lenses. The aperture for these lenses can be controlled with this switch over here that has 3 different settings depending on the lighting conditions. The higher you go here, the smaller the aperture opening is on the lenses. I myself have just been using it at it’s maximum aperture setting, which is approximately f/8. The shutter speed is always 1/60th of a second no matter what. So because you’re probably going to be using 100 ISO film, I recommend you always just keep your aperture open at f/8, as it’s pretty difficult to overexpose film. The light meter for the camera is actually right here. It’s just a simple photo cell. So what happens if the camera feels that it’s too dark for the exposure to be correct, it will actually show you a red light in the viewfinder when you push the shutter button halfway down, that looks like this. So when you look into the viewfinder, you’re going to see this framing guide here. You always want to take your photos with the camera horizontal, not vertical. That way the 3D effect will go from left to right, and it doesn’t really work when going top to bottom if the camera itself is vertical. So you’ll get 4 photographs that are all vertical like this. When you get an under exposure, this is the warning light when you hold the shutter button down halfway right here. Within this framing guide you want to make sure to fill your primary subject within the framing guide itself. The framing guide does a pretty good job of telling you what exactly is going to be shown in the photograph. So on the top of the camera, it actually has a little chart here of ideal 3D distances. So it essentially is telling you, mid-ground, foreground, background. And in the instruction booklet, it talks about having the mid-ground be where your subject is. Which is here, it says 15 to 22 feet, and in the booklet it also talks about a main subject being about 10 feet away. The foreground says 6 feet, so any object in the foreground. The minimum focusing distance for the camera is 5 1/2 feet. Anything closer than 5 1/2 feet to the front of a camera will turn out blurry. Keep in mind the lenses themselves are actually made of plastic, so the images aren’t going to be super tack sharp. There’s gonna be a slight amount of softness to them. So now let’s talk about the most important aspects of how to get a good 3D photo from the Nashika N8000. So this is a diagram from the instruction booklet, and here you can see it’s saying the ideal distance is about 17 feet. You can see there are foreground objects, nothing in front of 6 feet. Because the minimum focusing distance is 5 1/2 feet, and there’s also background objects. And the way it works is when the view goes left to right to make the 3D effect, it’s rotating around a focal point. And in this case it’s going to be the subject of the image. Having things like foreground objects and background objects allow the 3D effect to be more pronounced. In my personal experience, I found that actually getting as close as physically possible to the subject, around 6 feet, to maybe 10 feet, is really best and the reason why is just it creates more parallax the closer you are with the subject. But one thing that really helps is having foreground objects and background objects. Here’s another diagram from the instruction booklet. Here you can see the guide that you’ll see when you look through the viewfinder. We have foreground objects of trees, the subject is in the mid-ground, and then background objects. When you do it this way, you’ll get a pretty pronounced 3D effect. This is an example of a photo I’ve taken with the camera. Here we have foreground object of this bike, the main subject, this police officer, and some background objects, mainly this sign is the one that you see moving in the animated version. The subject, she’s about 10 feet in front of me. So this is a very sort of classic setup for what they’re saying in the booklet. Once you put together all the photos and animate them you can see you get side-to-side movement in the front here, and then in the back, compared to the main subject. So she’s not really moving. The things in front of her and behind her are. Other things that can help you enhance the 3D effect are things like leading lines. So here we have this concrete bench that goes all the way into the distance as well as the street here, and our subject, she’s about 8 to 10 feet away, and she’s the focal point. So I have everything rotating around her. So in this photo I don’t exactly have a specific subject, but I do have leading lines, so I can still get a 3D effect. Now the focal point in this particular photo is actually the word “Razor” right here. And this is really important, because you can change the rotational focal point when you create the GIF, which I’ll show you in a minute. But the middle, the mid-ground, is usually the best place. So you have the front moving some, the back moving some, but I can switch it. So if I go to here, This is where the focal point has been made to be right here. So you can see this part isn’t really moving, but now the background feels like it’s moving way more and you can actually see the photos are moving side-to-side a lot more. And then if I make the focal point this guy back here eating chips as he walks, you can see you still get the same 3D effect, but now it feels more like going left to right, left to right, sort of moving from one lens to the other. So it’ll really be up to you to decide what will work best when you’re creating the animated GIF to get the best 3D effect that you want. And now for some photos don’t work for 3D for the Nishika N8000 camera. Here we have a parking garage. I’ve pointed the camera up, and it’s animated. The focal points is like right around here, I think. But it it just doesn’t make any kind of 3D effect. It just looks kind of weird. Mainly because the subject’s too far away. Because we still have leading lines and everything, but it just doesn’t work. Here’s another example of a photo that I thought might work, because you have sort of a subject going all the way back, leading leading lines again. But the subject’s just too far away. The rotational point is somewhere around here, but it just doesn’t really have a 3D effect. You really want your subject to be as close as possible to the camera. When you go in more than 5 1/2 feet in front of the camera, one of the things you can actually do, if it’s a person, is they can hold their arm out to where it’s going to be blurry, pointing at the camera. And that will actually make an even more pronounced 3D effect because their blurry arm will essentially act as a foreground object. If you are taking a photo of a person or an animal you generally want to focus on their eyes. Here in this photo we have a little bit of a foreground object in this bar right here. But right now the rotation is based around the eyes. But if I change it, so here the rotation is based around this foot right here. So this is more of a mid-ground object as opposed to a foreground object. So it does feel a little bit more 3D, but it feels a little more intense when you focus on the eyes like this. So the Nishika N8000 also has a spot on the top where you can use a remote release cord like this. When the camera’s on a tripod, in order to prevent any kind of shaking. Keep in mind that the shutter speed is always 1/60th of a second. So long exposures aren’t really possible, but that doesn’t mean that a tripod can’t help to prevent any kind of shakiness. The top of the camera has a basic hotshoe, which will trigger just about any kind of manual flash. There are flashes that were made specifically by Nashika, but it’s not really worth getting them. You can use almost any flash that can be manually controlled, or even ones that can’t and your picture will probably turn out just fine. Once you know you’ve reached the end of your roll, you can rewind it back into the canister by pushing the rewind button here on the bottom, which releases the take-up spool, and flipping the rewind knob out and rewinding your film back into the canister. You’ll be able to feel the lead on this side come out and probably hear it as well. (stomach grumble) The film might actually tear slightly on the end, which is fine. You can open up the back of the camera the same way by pulling up on the rewind knob, and taking out your film. So you’re going to need to have your film developed and scanned. So you can do this yourself, which I have a whole video on how to develop black and white film if you’re interested in that, or you can have it done at a print shop and just make sure that they understand that the scans… You really just need to be able to separate out each one of these 4 photos into its own photo, so that you’ll be importing those into GIMP, which is the free software we’ll be using, as layers. So you can get GIMP from www.gimp.org. It’s basically a open source free Photoshop alternative. As of the making of this video, it’s 2.10.14 is the current version. So you can use GIMP itself to crop out those photos. So when you have the photos scanned in like this what you can do is edit them a little bit and then you’ll be cropping each one out and saving it individually. So to edit it, go to colors, you have exposure, shadow/highlights, brightness/contrast. So I’m just going to do real simple edit here. Brightness, bring up the brightness just a little bit. And bring up the contrast just a little bit. Say okay. So the crop tool is right here, and then you basically just… drag… and hit enter. And then you can save this individually as a JPEG. So you go to actually “Export as…”, and here you can see I already have them saved 1, 2 ,3, 4. Then you just hit export and then you’ll choose the quality of the JPEG and then you can hit “Control” + “Z”, and it will take one step back. And then all you have to do is just crop the next one. So once you’ve created all of your individual photos, you can go to “File”, “Open as layers”. And so here you can see 1, 2, 3, 4. “Open” And we’ll open them all as layers on the right here, but they’re in the wrong order. So the way the GIF animation works is that it uses the layers in order for the animation. So you just go ahead and put them in order here, and then you need to take layer 3, right click, duplicate the layer, take that copy, put it below 4. Then do the same thing with 2. Right click, duplicate, then move it there. The reason why is because as it goes through the animation, it’ll go 1, 2, 3, 4, and then 3, 2, back to 1, and start over. So these little eyes here mean that the layer is visible or not visible. So I’ll go ahead and turn off all the layers between the top one and the bottom one and basically, everything’s going to be aligned to this layer. So I’m going to click the first layer… I’m actually going to go over here. I’m going to hit the zoom button and zoom in. So this is where the focal point of the photo makes a big difference, because you can make anything in the photo the rotation point of the 3D effect. But since it’s a person I’m going to use her face. So once I’m zoomed in, I’m going to use the “Move” tool. Go back to my layer here and I’m going to change the opacity. So what this does, is it makes the this layer kind of see-through, so I can align them. Then I can move this and line them up, and then you want to make sure to return the opacity back. And then you do the next layer, and you just do that for all the layers. Once you’ve aligned all your layers, you want to make sure to make them all visible again. And you can zoom out by hitting the zoom button and holding down control. You then go to file, export as, and then the file type. What you really want is GIF. So basically what this is saying, is that the layers are going beyond each other and that’s fine. We don’t really care that much. You want to make sure to click as animation, and for the delay, I have found that 250 milliseconds works pretty well. But you can try some different ones if you want then you hit export, and that’s it. One other thing you can do in GIMP is you can add different drawings or patterns to each layer and so as it animates, it will look like this. So here I have red and blue for the police, I have a little halo around the guy getting arrested, and I think it shows that the camera can be used to take action shots as well. Here’s our final GIF. You can experiment if you want with different focal points to rotate around or a different amount of delay between switching between layers. But this is just a very basic way to get the 3D effects animated into a GIF of your photos. So I hope this video has been helpful to you or at least interesting. If you feel I’ve earned it, I’d love to get a like from you and if you’re interested in film cameras or film photography, go ahead and subscribe. If you have any questions or comments, you can go ahead and leave them down in the comments below. Thanks for watching!

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  1. Thanks! Very instructive, concise and well made 🙂
    Do you have any experice processing the image files in stereophotomaker (http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/stphmkr/index.html) for production of anaglyphs, or even facebook 3D photos?

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