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  1. What a wonderfully presented guide; a calming nigh-stream-of-consciousness without any irrelevant moments.

    Fantastically educational!


  2. Im really interested in the next part. Was it for the sake of price that you decided to go the filming a projected image over telecine?
    Also the canon you have seems to be a workhouse of the super 8 world, any others you'd recommend?

  3. Marker on the barcodes is not a good idea. Some scanners are sensitive enough to read a slight contrast and still capture the bars, plus, crossing out horizontally is not doing anything either. Scanners can read just the tips of the barcode. You need to block out the bars vertically. Best to remove all shipping labels instead. (For many reasons). Also, covering with more labels could be just as bad if you don't use multiple layers. Just a semi-related fun fact. Shipping carriers disregard "fragile" stickers. They state this clearly in their shippers' guide every year. It is because people would use this as an excuse to not pack their shipments properly. Can't afford some bubble wrap? Put a fragile sticker on it!!!!
    If you pack your shipment properly, you can ship anything to handle standard abuse without being damaged. (Yes, boxes do get crushed on occasion.). You would be surprised how many people reuse a box to ship and they don't take off the previous shipping label. They end up shipping to themselves. 🙂
    Thanks for the video!!

  4. Hi! Great content in your videos. I'm planning to shoot my own music videos and i'd love to do it in 16mm or super 8. i still have to figure out which one.. any way i was wondering how expensive it would be to do that (cost of the camera, film, developping, digitalizing etc..). the shots would probably very simple like steady shots of nature fields.. so i guess i won't need to film more than an hour or so.. can someone give me a very approximative price range so that i can have a more clear idea ( i know pretty much nothing about filming) Thanks anyway

  5. i know these videos are two years old but do you think you can give some pointers on using the black and white reversal film?

  6. I think I missed something, but did he say if you could send in the film to a composite lab for them to convert it to digital?

  7. I picked up that Canon at a yard sale today for five bucks. Looking forward to working more with older formats for transfers. Thanks very much for your series – it's very helpful.

  8. Take this from an 'old person' who used to film and produce my own films on Super 8 in the "old days". Don't trust the light meter!! Use FILLER LIGHT or a REFLECTOR if you aren't sure of the light.

  9. man if you are going to mount your camera to a truck in the dirt it would be great idea to wrap it up in plastic wrap so you are getting dust particle all inside the lens and housing. I mean some cameras are total crap plastic but if its your baby I would be a bit more gentle with it.

  10. How could you use 500T on a Canon 814 which is only able to auto expose up to 160D/250T? The one solution I came up to is either use external photometer or take a reading at the auto exposition the camera gives you (presuming it thinks you're using 250T) and then switching to manual and closing 1 stop. Otherwise you'd be over exposing 1 stop I imagine (from 250T to 500T)

  11. "Always better to over expose then under expose". Only true with negative film, different story if you're shooting reversal and Ektachrome is available again.

  12. 2:27 The internal filter looks fine to me, better contrast too, and if anything it's less than half a stop difference, and anytime you use an external filter you have more concerns over refraction and added aberration of the incoming image, plus, with the filter close to the gate and lens elements, it is less likely to show up dirt and dust, if you clean your camera properly. I don't think it's a good idea to add filters of any kind to a Super 8 lens, (even internally) nowadays, when you need the maximum light and resolution the lens was designed to provide being focused to such a small area, (and it has the coatings as well on each element). You can add filters in post, and also do much more accurate color balancing in software than that daylight filter will adjust for. I say leave the filters alone, unless you're using the built-in meter outdoors. Even outdoors, if your camera iris will go upwards of f32, why would you even bother with a filter?, and these filters were designed for Kodachrome 40, which did not have as much latitude as you have now with negative stock. A warming filter will do nothing special on Kodak Vision film, anymore than it would on a 35mm SLR, (maybe on Ektachrome it would help a bit).

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