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  1. Awesome stuff, I always wondered where that "bubble effect" came from, I suppose a cheap LED could fix that burning issue though 🙂

  2. Loving this series! Dunno if I'd even ever shoot super 8 film, but I still find this very interesting and fun to watch

  3. Hi.I just envy you ,because you've got cheap films and processing in US 🙂 .One roll cost about 1/7 of month salary in PL, but super8 is almost unknown. We've got here plenty of super cheap russian cameras and projectors, but they mostly serve as a decoration ..(Got mine rus projector for 3$).I've managed to insert diffrent objective for bigger screen, but you need stronger light source, so future lies in led, because they're more accesible than old bulbs. All best to you guys!

  4. You might mention you don't want to handle the bulb with your bare hands as the oils on your fingers will make certain bulbs burn out faster. Mostly halogen type.

  5. My friends switched the original lamp with the less powerful cool LED (also they used some kind of diffusing glass to make its light smoother on the whole field) and shoot it with the macro lens, the result was wonderful. Also, I've heard about the mechanisms which used Arduino operated motors, which was synchonised with the camera by software, and every frame was shot in photo mode, so the results had the resolution of about 4K. But now, when there are so many 4K videoshooting cameras there's no more need in such complicated mechanisms.

  6. "… VHS rewinder, if you know what those things are…"
    you kidding? had one of those sports car rewinder, so I would look cool rewinding my lion king movie lol

  7. I just bought an 8mm (not super) camera on a market, had to do some fixing but i got it working. Is it worth it to work with this as a beginner because i'll make mistakes quicker or should i just go to super 8 so it's a bit safer?

  8. Great Great info, doing a project now 68 reels, after 18 reels I switched from my sony SR11 ( as capture ) from SIMA mirror setup, to my Sony DSR-250, and WOW what a difference , something about the 250 that takes away the flicker, my setup is Sima mirror , Bell & Howell 253RS , DSR-250 connected to my "DVREX M-1 Canopus" which has "S" and RCA input so now I go directly to HDD ( actually have 4 Canopus setups) glad I kept them as with the DSR-250's which was also trying to sell, then edit through PP CS3…which is nice , as I can crop and rotate as necessary to fill the frame.and add sound in post. the trick is "when scaling up" is to check mark " Interlace" when scaling .. worked awesome, tanks for the great video again..

  9. I do have a question about the lens on the bell and howell, I noticed it pulls out and in like in 2 detents? whats that for? been searching with no luck.Thanks..

  10. Excellent stuff man! Hint to the super 8 transfer to video, look for a variable speed projector. These let you increase frame rate or decrease, attenuate to where you see flicker clearing up. Chinon and Sankyo both had these versions relatively inexpensive, Elmo's as well but a little higher end in price.

  11. I started out on Regular 8 then made my way up to Super 8. Plenty of nostalgia but the developing costs and tedious editing? Hello, digital. I still have my projector and cameras so now you've got me all hopped up to dig it all out and make some trouble.

  12. It's never fun or a good idea to intentionally burn a frame of film while projecting. First of all it isn't good for the projector and secondly what is the point to destroy film?

  13. I've been using Eumig projectors for decades, and I've never seen the flicker that you have on your projectors.
    I think the ones you use are faulty, or to be honest… Some cheap crap 😉

    Also, when using 18 / 24 FPS, the picture shown with my projectors (Eumig 810D & Eumig 824 Sonomatic) stand crystal clear, no flickering of any kind.

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